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Re: [Amps] More information for "What NOT to buy"..

To: "Mike, K6BR" <noddy1211@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [Amps] More information for "What NOT to buy"..
From: W2RU - Bud Hippisley <W2RU@frontiernet.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 04:31:53 +0000
List-post: <mailto:amps@contesting.com>
Mike, K6BR wrote:

>What modifications did you make to get 1500 watts out, was it just a power
>supply change?
>  
>
1.  Used the SSB transformer taps on CW.
2.  Added a 50-watt 27-volt Zener diode in the filament center tap on 
CW, to reduce key-up idling current to zero.  Heat-sunk the zener to one 
of the interior aluminum walls in the amplifier through a mica insulator.
3.  Took all transformer wiring off the front panel CW/SSB rocker switch 
and used that switch to short out the new 27-volt Zener when operating 
SSB.  (Do not short out the stock 3.2-volt Zener!)

Somewhere I think I have a handwritten single-page summary (in Heath 
kit-buildling style) of the exact wiring changes necessary to implement 
the high-power CW mod.  I also use the Zener diode part of the mod in my 
Amp Supply LK-550.  Please understand that cutting the tubes off with 
the 27-volt Zener should not be used on SSB, even though it helps reduce 
total tube dissipation.  At the edge of cutoff the tubes are operating 
in a less linear region and increased distortion on SSB will result.

Related background:

I run QSK with an outboard electronic TR switch here.  I don't use PTT, 
VOX, or Semi-QSK on CW because I don't like to hear the sound of big 
relays ker-chunking -- even once per transmission -- and I want to hear 
the people I'm working between my dots and dashes.  When I am operating 
CW, my antenna changeover relay in the SB-220 is energized 100% of the 
time I am using the amplifer; the Zener diode automatically cuts off the 
tube when I'm not sending, thus eliminating any shot noise at the input 
to the TR switch.

I don't operate much SSB but the simplest way to key the amp, of course, 
is to have the amp relay in the exciter directly drive the antenna 
changeover relay in the amp -- whether VOX or foot-switch (PTT) 
operated.  (But note -- not all solid state transceivers are capable of 
directly switching the 120 volts DC that appears on the ANT RELAY phono 
jack on the back of the SB-220.)

In years past I've also used a homebrew electronic circuit that biases 
the grids of the 3-500s during "key up" (i.e., while in RX mode) in both 
CW and SSB.  Back when my exciter was a 32S3, my outboard circuit took 
its input from the 32S-3 key line.  My circuit instantly unbiased the 
ampllifier *before* any RF was emitted, and it included a 
pulse-stretcher to keep the amplifier keyed until *after* the last of 
the RF had been delivered by the exciter.   (I had modified my 32S-3 to 
pull the key line to ground on SSB from inside the exciter; on CW, my 
keyers or bugs did the same job.)   Later, when I switched to Kenwood 
transceivers, I found a pre-existing low-level signal that performed the 
same function as my old pulse-stretcher circuit.

In my opinion, 3-500Z amplifiers are great.  The circuitry is simple and 
the tubes are hardy and inexpensive.   Once I had an HT-33A (PL-172) and 
another time an Alpha PA-76.  Both were prone to failure despite all 
sorts of protective control circuitry.  Perhaps most important from a 
DXer's point of view, 3-500Z owners don't have to wait three minutes 
before they can use their amplifier....

Bud, W2RU


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