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Re: [TowerTalk] Soldering RG213 to PL259

To: 'Garry' <g.drummond@verizon.net>, towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Soldering RG213 to PL259
From: Steve Katz <stevek@jmr.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2007 08:26:32 -0800
List-post: <mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
Amphenol still manufactures and sells real, honest PL-259s, like the P/N
83-1SP.  They are like the old ones you're familiar and comfortable with.
Amphenol is the patent holder on the design, although the protections
provided for ran out many years ago.

I'd stay away from the Amphenol "RFX" PL-259s, which can be found with a
Teflon dielectric but not a silver plated connector body: They are
"Astroplate," which is a bright nickel finish that does not wet very well
with ordinary solder.  The old-fashioned 83-1SP, which has been around for
50+ years, has a phenolic dielectric but a silver-plated body and is very
easy to solder, it wets like a sponge.

WB2WIK/6

-----Original Message-----
From: Garry [mailto:g.drummond@verizon.net]
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 8:22 AM
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: [TowerTalk] Soldering RG213 to PL259


This may have been discussed previously and if so I apologize for 
waisting space. I recently purchased a bag of 10 PL-259's from BuxComm. 
These are silver/teflon with a gold center pin. I have been out of ham 
radio for the last 16 years and haven't soldered any connectors since 
before 1990. I used to cut the outer jacket to the proper length, tin 
the braid then solder the braid through the 4 holes on the side then 
solder the center conductor. Back then, most PL259's were made in the 
USA and the area where the holes are was reduced in diameter so that the 
braid made good mechanical contact and would solder well if good quality 
cable was used.

With these newer connectors, I find the diameter of the connector is not 
reduced in the area where the holes are so there is a gap between the 
inside of the connector and the braid of tinned coax. You can't fold the 
braid back over the outer insulation and get it that far in the 
connector as the fit is too tight. I have seen examples where some are 
soldering the braid to the outside of the PL259 but I like doing  it 
from the inside as I used to do years ago. 

Does anyone know of a way to work with these newer PL259's? I wonder if 
all PL259's are made this way now?

73,
Garry - WR4R

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