A lot depends upon location. Multiple Short 3 foot rods here in
Maine, would not be effective some years. The ground in winter can
freeze down to 4 feet. Frozen earth is close to an insulator.
DX is better on 160 in Winter, but driving new longer ground rods
is not easy then.
73
Bruce-k1fz
www.qsl.net/k1fz/bogantennanotes/index.html
On Sun, 18 Jan 2015 19:59:03 -0600, Jim Miller
<JimMiller@STL-OnLine.Net> wrote:
Not to stir the conclusion here but,
>
> More grounds would likely be more effective than larger ones because each
> has an entirely new area of ground to dissipate the energy providing they
> are properly spaced and connected.
>
> Just thinking, I wouldn't want to be holding the other end of a steel rod
> during a lightning strike any more than I would a copper clad one.
>
> 73, Jim KG0KP
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: RFI [mailto:rfi-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of David Cole
> Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2015 3:16 PM
> To: rfi@contesting.com
> Subject: Re: [RFI] w7ekb & ground rods
>
> Would not a 1 inch copper pipe driven into the ground have more conductive
> area? I have a grounding project coming up this summer, and am looking
> forward to the rest of this discussion.
> --
> Thanks and 73's,
> For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
> www.nk7z.net
> for MixW support see;
> http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
> for Dopplergram information see:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
> for MM-SSTV see:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info
>
>
> On Sun, 2015-01-18 at 13:28 -0500, K1FZ-Bruce wrote:
> > The water idea is good on the near ground rod, but not so easy on
> > the far end of a very long Beverage antenna.
> >
> > Earlier in the discussion, (note lower in this posting) it was noted
> > that much of the copper on a platted rod was pitted, and eroded
> > away. Steel itself is a poor conductor.
> >
> > The 3/4 inch thick wall copper pipe, in many cases, gives enough
> > mechanical strength, but more importantly, has more conductive surface
> > area.
> >
> > 73
> > Bruce-k1fz
> >
> > www.qsl.net/k1fz/beveragenotes.html
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Sun, 18 Jan 2015 12:28:58 -0500, "Roger (K8RI)"
> > <k8ri@rogerhalstead.com> wrote:
> > It's easier ti hook a hose to the other end and use it like a water
> > > drill. No beating, no deforming and it goes in easily and quickly.
> > > Stony soil? Then copper pipe can not be driven either. Copper plated
> > > steel is more rugged and much cheaper.
> > >
> > > 73
> > >
> > > Roger (K8RI)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On 1/18/2015 11:20 AM, K1FZ-Bruce wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I use thick wall 3/4 inch copper pipe from local hardware stores.
> > > > Beating the ground end of a segment into a point with a hammer,
> makes
> > > > the insertion into the ground easier. It can skid around smaller
> rocks
> > > > better.
> > > > 73
> > > > Bruce-k1fz. www.qsl.net/k1fz/beveragenotes.html
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 16:20:28 -0600, dalej <dj2001x@comcast.net>
> wrote:
> > > > The copper coated rods eventually will deteriorate, I've found too.
> > > > After pulling them out I've found them speckled where the copper has
> > > > eroded away and the base material shown. I like the solid copper
> > > > tubing as ground rods better, but they are not that easy to embed.
> Use
> > > > water to get them in the ground. >
> > > > > Dale, k9vuj
> > > > >
> >
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> > RFI@contesting.com
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>
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