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Re: [TowerTalk] Coax and control lines in same PVC (SteveJones)-Option

To: "Joe Subich, W4TV" <lists@subich.com>, <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Coax and control lines in same PVC (SteveJones)-Option
From: "Patrick Greenlee" <patrick_g@windstream.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 15:01:36 -0500
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
I don't have a dog in this fight, yet, but almost. What about towers 200 ft away from the shack or 300 or more. I am in the S L O W process of putting up three towers and they will be daisy chained for some semblance of efficiency in cabling rather than a star or other control line and coax gobbling pattern. This puts the last tower in line the farthest away from the shack and at least 200 ft straight line (I'm still trenching for the coax run to the first tower and working on the excavation and rebar cage for one of the towers. Just how practical would it be to replace control lines with RF links?

I will have to trench to all the towers installing conduit for the coax and running another conduit with AC power for electric winches, lights, and convenience outlets so the trade off study will be hard wire to everything for control vs remote control. I will have remote coax relays at each tower that need to be switched as well as rotor cables.

So, I'm open to information regarding feasibility of radio remote control vs hardwire control. Casual conjecture or vague refs to Google are not productive. Anyone out there have actual experience they'd care to share?

Patrick AF5CK

-----Original Message----- From: Joe Subich, W4TV
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 1:51 PM
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Coax and control lines in same PVC (SteveJones)-Option


You still need to provide +12V to switch the relays plus power for the
WiFi receivers *and* protect the sensitive receivers located at the base
bottom of a huge lightning rod from damage from both water (rain) and
lightning.

Copper control cables with proper lightning protection and relay output
controllers are far more reliable and damage resistant than small signal
(WiFi boxes) devices.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 6/17/2013 11:56 AM, Victor M. Walz N2PP wrote:
You will save a lot of money on copper control cables by going with wireless controls for any antenna applications that require switching (stack matches,
coax switches, rx antenna switches, phasing switches, etc). Plus, you
eliminate all the extra control cabling in the shack and the need to provide
lightning protection on those control cable conductors. WiFi is easy and
relatively cheap to use. If you plan to operate remotely, with wireless
controls the antenna switching capability is available in your station PC.

The ham vendor that provides this capability also provides the free software
for your personal on-screen switching configurations.  There are some very
big contest stations that have gone this route.

Another plus: You can buy better coax with any money you save.

This is an option to burying or running control cables and not an
endorsement or ad.

Vic  N2PP

-----Original Message-----
From: TowerTalk [mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of
towertalk-request@contesting.com
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 10:23 PM
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: TowerTalk Digest, Vol 126, Issue 39

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Today's Topics:

    1. Re: Coax and control lines in same PVC (Steve Jones)
    2. Unsubscribe (Robert M0RCX)
    3. Re: Tower Jack? (Mark Robinson)
    4. Re: Tower Jack? (Jim Lux)
    5. D3W - Pros and Cons? (GALE STEWARD)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 09:26:53 -0700
From: "Steve Jones" <n6sj@earthlink.net>
To: "'Doug Scribner'" <dscribner@myfairpoint.net>, "'Towertalk'"
<towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Coax and control lines in same PVC
Message-ID: <000001ce6aae$50c6c260$f2544720$@earthlink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Doug-

When I recently buried 165' conduits for my new tower, I put in three runs
of 3" electrical PVC. One run for all the control cables, one for coax only and one for future unforeseen uses. I pulled more runs of coax and control cables than I thought I need now, "just in case". Probably overkill, but I
wanted to avoid having to pull out all the cables and re-pull them with a
new run if I were to need something more in the future.  Even though I
pulled a new pull rope along with each conduit's cables, and put it on a
swivel so it wouldn't wrap around those cables during the pull, I have heard
it is very difficult to pull additional cables into a conduit that already
has cables in it.

73,
Steve
N6SJ

-----Original Message-----
From: TowerTalk [mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of Doug
Scribner
Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2013 12:23 PM
To: Towertalk
Subject: [TowerTalk] Coax and control lines in same PVC

Good afternoon,

I need to bring the following lines from the tower to the house...a distance
of about 35 feet. I plan to do this using Schedule 40 electrical PVC.

2 coax lines from SixPak switch (RF)
Rotor control
SixPak switch control
Stack Match control
2 to 1 remote coax relay control

What are the pros and cons of running all this through the same PVC?

Thanks and 73

Doug - K1ZO

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------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 19:22:25 +0100
From: Robert M0RCX <m6bfd@yahoo.com>
To: "towertalk@contesting.com" <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: [TowerTalk] Unsubscribe
Message-ID: <9804367F-B2F5-4117-AE6F-64F2BD870BC4@yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Unsubscribe

Robert Rawson
M0RCX

North Wakefield Radio Club

On 16 Jun 2013, at 17:00, towertalk-request@contesting.com wrote:

Send TowerTalk mailing list submissions to
    towertalk@contesting.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
    http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
    towertalk-request@contesting.com

You can reach the person managing the list at
    towertalk-owner@contesting.com

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of TowerTalk digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1.  Yaesu G2800 SDX limited rotation (Grant Saviers)
   2. Re: Yaesu G2800 SDX limited rotation (davidrobbins)
   3. Re: How to apply lube to HDX589 (Patrick Greenlee)
   4. Re: How to apply lube to HDX589 (Doug Turnbull)
   5. How to apply lube to HDX589 (Jim Thomson)
   6. FW: When To Replace Tower Cable??? (Fred Hurd)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 18:25:34 -0700
From: Grant Saviers <grants2@pacbell.net>
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: [TowerTalk]  Yaesu G2800 SDX limited rotation
Message-ID: <51BD140E.5060101@pacbell.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

My G2800 SDX rotator only rotates 350 degrees, the manual says 450 with
the overlap feature.

When the overlap light comes on the mast rotates another 90 degrees CW
(right), so that seems about right.  In the other direction (CCW, left)
it stops short for 350 deg total rotation.

I've been to the tower top, loosened the mast and it is free to rotate
and the coax isn't the problem.

Any thoughts as to what else I should check or look for if I remove it?
Could it be a controller problem?

Grant KZ1W


------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 11:21:38 +0000
From: "davidrobbins" <davidrobbins@ieee.org>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Yaesu G2800 SDX limited rotation
Message-ID: <002601ce6a83$ac21cf40$04656dc0$@ieee.org>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

If you are using the manual rocker switch then the controller shouldn't be the problem, the only thing that should stop it when using that switch are the limit switches. You can double check that by using a 12v power supply
to turn the rotor, that would eliminate the controller.

I would monitor the current to the motor, when it stops if there is still
current then something is jammed, if there is no current then something is
opening the limit switch too soon.  In either case of course something is
broke and if you are using the rocker switch or 12v supply then it must be
in the rotor.

-----Original Message-----
From: Grant Saviers [mailto:grants2@pacbell.net]
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 01:26
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: [TowerTalk] Yaesu G2800 SDX limited rotation

My G2800 SDX rotator only rotates 350 degrees, the manual says 450 with
the
overlap feature.

When the overlap light comes on the mast rotates another 90 degrees CW
(right), so that seems about right. In the other direction (CCW, left) it
stops short for 350 deg total rotation.

I've been to the tower top, loosened the mast and it is free to rotate and
the coax isn't the problem.

Any thoughts as to what else I should check or look for if I remove it?
Could it be a controller problem?

Grant KZ1W
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------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 07:51:14 -0500
From: "Patrick Greenlee" <patrick_g@windstream.net>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] How to apply lube to HDX589
Message-ID: <8FD4CB2AD9874B948B2CE2458CC91472@PatrickPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
    reply-type=original




*******************
If upper sections also have locks, how is the disengagement cable that
operates the locks managed? Since the tower gets taller, there would be a
lot of cable that needs to play out as it goes up.  How is that kept from
tangling up?



Chris

*****************

Chris, I have a rag sailor background and we lived aboard our sailboat for
9
years.  As you can imagine, minding all the running rigging, ground
tackle,
etc. is not a trivial task and is important to get right and can be life
threatening when fouled up.

A UV resistant very open weave cloth bag to hold the tail of a line (one
per
line) can be real handy. Rain water will not collect in it and permits
moisture to dry out.  You just stuff the long line tail into the bag in
FILO
fashion (First In Last Out) and when withdrawn from the bag it virtually
always comes out freely with no tangles.

I can think of hands free systems to take up the slack and pay it out
automatically but they look like they were designed by Rube Goldberg.

Patrick AF5CK



------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 13:21:14 -0000
From: "Doug Turnbull" <turnbull@net1.ie>
To: "'Patrick Greenlee'" <patrick_g@windstream.net>,
    <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] How to apply lube to HDX589
Message-ID: <269B72D7B4E54C69BA8F664C71DE2B28@DOUG1>
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="us-ascii"

Chris,

   In my experience there was a single brake at the lowest and therefore
stationary level. This counterweighted flap merely takes the strain from the lowest wire rope and most importantly from the winch. Some of us may
add additional stops by carefully climbing the tower and inserting steel
bars on heavy duty rectangular cross arm bracing - obviously such a tower
is
not lowered in a storm.

   At this QTH one such tower is stayed as per the manufacturer's
specification - my additional rest / brake between the second and third
section are additional.   Imagine the problem which might occur with a
five
section tower using strings to release multiple brakes.

    Removing the entire weight of the upper sections from the winch and
lowest rope though makes good sense.

I am not recommending my approach to anyone else. Great care is taken
when inserting the additional steel bar between the second and third
sections.   The larger tower has three sections which are forty foot long
and the manufacturer insisted on stays.   I did not intend to ever depend
on
the wire rope when stays increase downward loading.

    Why a crank up then.   It make is much easier to work on the antenna
and
greatly reduces climbing. I have a bad back and it is not wise for me to
be up top.   Fact is these days I use a rigger.

                73 Doug EI2CN


-----Original Message-----
From: TowerTalk [mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of
Patrick Greenlee
Sent: 16 June 2013 12:51
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] How to apply lube to HDX589




*******************
If upper sections also have locks, how is the disengagement cable that
operates the locks managed? Since the tower gets taller, there would be a
lot of cable that needs to play out as it goes up.  How is that kept from
tangling up?



Chris

*****************

Chris, I have a rag sailor background and we lived aboard our sailboat for
9

years.  As you can imagine, minding all the running rigging, ground
tackle,
etc. is not a trivial task and is important to get right and can be life
threatening when fouled up.

A UV resistant very open weave cloth bag to hold the tail of a line (one
per

line) can be real handy. Rain water will not collect in it and permits
moisture to dry out.  You just stuff the long line tail into the bag in
FILO

fashion (First In Last Out) and when withdrawn from the bag it virtually
always comes out freely with no tangles.

I can think of hands free systems to take up the slack and pay it out
automatically but they look like they were designed by Rube Goldberg.

Patrick AF5CK

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------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 06:36:22 -0700
From: "Jim Thomson" <jim.thom@telus.net>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: [TowerTalk] How to apply lube to HDX589
Message-ID: <6A97736177BA41D58175BC99BCBD9855@JimPC>
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="iso-8859-1"

Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 17:11:14 -0700
From: Grant Saviers <grants2@pacbell.net>
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] How to apply lube to HDX589


  I was concerned that where the cables touch the W
bracing the lube might detour off, but not so much.  I could spray until
the lube ran down 5 to 10'.  Did this for every cable on that face, and
then I repositioned the boom lift lower, doing each tower side top to
bottom.  A bit of lube foam marked the end of where the lube ran down
the cables, but it is quite easy to lose track of what is saturated.

##  None of the cables should be touching the W bracing at any time !





I've read a bunch of wire rope manufacturers literature, plus the
infinite loop reflector posts, and became convinced  lubricating the
cables with Prelube 6 is the way to go.  Seeing how dry the cables were,
and the bird crap already stuck on them, reinforced this as the right
decision for me.  I'll do it again in three years or so.

Grant KZ1W

##  I would do it at least once per year..and probably twice per year.
One of the posters  put a link to a url a few days ago...and the
recommendation in the wire rope industry was that even a bit of pre-lube
6-9-11  on a frequent basis is a lot better than a thorough job done
infrequently.
IMO, 3 years is way too infrequent.

Jim  VE7RF








------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 10:26:37 -0400
From: "Fred Hurd" <fred.hurd@cox.net>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Cc: 'Fred Hurd' <fred.hurd@cox.net>
Subject: [TowerTalk] FW: When To Replace Tower Cable???
Message-ID: <000301ce6a9d$8316c3c0$89444b40$@hurd@cox.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="us-ascii"

 From all the Tower Talk responses, I have concluded the following:



1.       Regular examination of the cable (at least twice a year) is
mandatory to detect any significant number of loose cable strands or
significant rusting.

2.       If either is the case, it is time to replace the cable. Rusting
more likely occurs where water can collect (as underneath the pulley
wheels).

3. Lubricating the cable twice a year will greatly extend its useful
life because the lubricant soaks into the cable and discourages internal
binding. especially when the cable turns around the pulley wheels.

4. Pulley wheels do not need to be lubricated if they were sealed at
the factory, but they need to be regularly inspected for any binding or
wear.

5.       Greasing the crank-up moving parts on a regular basis helps keep
the tower raising run smoothly and puts less stress on the cables.

6.       With regular maintenance/inspection and depending on location,
the
cable can last many years.



Any additions, corrections, or disagreements?



Fred Hurd (W4PKU)

















From: Fred Hurd [mailto:fred.hurd@cox.net]
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2013 7:02 AM
To: 'towertalk@contesting.com'; 'grants2@pacbell.net'
Subject: When To Replace Tower Cable???



This seems to be a constant question for those of us who have crank-up
towers. How can you tell when it is time to replace the cable? Some say
that
it's too late when rust appears as the cables weaken from the inside out.
Is that true? Others say if you lubricate the cable twice a year it will
last forever? Is that true? Does anyone know the truth?



Fred Hurd (W4PKU)



------------------------------

Subject: Digest Footer

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------------------------------

End of TowerTalk Digest, Vol 126, Issue 38
******************************************


------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 18:11:01 -0400
From: "Mark Robinson" <markrob@mindspring.com>
To: "Jim Lux" <jimlux@earthlink.net>, <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Tower Jack?
Message-ID: <73439E2B6A4A48FC9B76983D3B847D28@hplaptop>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=response

I want to see patent numbers and read exactly what the patents otherwise it
is all hot air and hearsay.

Mark N1UK

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Lux" <jimlux@earthlink.net>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Sent: Saturday, 15 June, 2013 12:39 AM
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Tower Jack?


On 6/14/13 8:08 PM, K8RI wrote:
On 6/14/2013 3:55 PM, Larry wrote:
Patents are renewable if I recall. I don't know if they changed when
they changed trademarks. Trademarks are good as long as the owner is
still alive and other rules (used to be 28 years and renewable once). I
have lost touch with the IP law stuff.

Too bad they changed the patent laws as I've been using the tower clamo
for nearly 30 years and figured any one who wanted to builfd one could.
   Actually a patent doesn't prevent you from building one for your self
to use.

sure enough, the law does prohibit building one for your own use (35 USC
271). there is an exception if you're doing research on the patented item

(e.g. to improve it), but not for just plain old use.

The classic example is a hammer. If the claims are sufficiently broad
(e.g. a device held in one or two hands, moved in a swinging motion to
apply a force), you could make a hammer in order to compare it to your
pneumatic hammer, but not to build a house (or, more interestingly, to
form the metal for your new pneumatic hammer)  You can build it to
"compare" for research, but not to use.

The key is "use" (as opposed to "sell" which is also prohibited) { the
actual wording is something like "made, used, sold, offered to sell or
imported"

Keeping this all nice and ham radio related, a classic example is the
Vibroplex bug.  Lots of knockoffs, and Vibroplex went after the users
(e.g. commercial telegraphers), as well as manufacturers.

ANd, sadly, there was a recent Supreme Court decision that casts the
"research exemption" into doubt, after some 150+ years.

Madey vs Duke, 2002
" In short, regardless of whether a particular institution or entity is
engaged in an endeavor for commercial gain, so long as the act is in
furtherance of the alleged infringer's legitimate business and is not
solely for amusement, to satisfy idle curiosity, or for strictly
philosophical inquiry, the act does not qualify for the very narrow and
strictly limited experimental use defense. Moreover, the profit or
non-profit status of the user is not determinative. "


So you could probably built a towerjack (assuming the patent exists and is

still valid) for the purposes of testing it (in the context of a bonafide
experimental process) but not just for assembling/disassembling your
tower.  If you were to set up a "tower jacking" contest of some sort,
perhaps that would fly?
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------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 16:49:33 -0700
From: Jim Lux <jimlux@earthlink.net>
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Tower Jack?
Message-ID: <51BE4F0D.1030003@earthlink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

On 6/16/13 3:11 PM, Mark Robinson wrote:
I want to see patent numbers and read exactly what the patents otherwise
it is all hot air and hearsay.



That certainly would be interesting.


------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 19:23:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: GALE STEWARD <k3nd@yahoo.com>
To: towertalk reflector <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: [TowerTalk] D3W - Pros and Cons?
Message-ID:
<1371435783.66504.YahooMailNeo@web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Wondering if anyone has installed the D3W WARC rotary dipole. I've read the
reviews on Eham but am wondering what the collective wisdom is about this
antenna from the TOWERTALK gang.

Any info appreciated...

73, Stew K3ND


------------------------------

Subject: Digest Footer

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------------------------------

End of TowerTalk Digest, Vol 126, Issue 39
******************************************

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